Vitamin C In dermocosmetics by Léa, R&D Assistant

Can you briefly explain the origin of vitamin C and its importance in dermocosmetic care?

Vitamin C, also known by its chemical name ascorbic acid, is essential to the functioning of the human body, but our bodies don't produce it naturally. It is therefore supplied by our diet (mainly fruit and vegetables), dietary supplements and cosmetics.

Cutaneous application is particularly important, as the epidermis is often vitamin C deficient. It has the following effects :

Antioxydant

Antioxidant

Stimulates the natural defense system.

Raffermissant

Firmness and elasticity

Increases collagen production.

Eclat

Radiance

Inhibits melanin production.

What benefits can vitamin C offer?

Vitamin C neutralizes the action of free radicals induced by exposure to the sun, pollution or smoking, by stabilizing them. It is these free radicals that damage cells, and are therefore responsible for the oxidative stress that leads to premature skin aging.

Can vitamin C help reduce the signs of skin ageing, such as wrinkles and loss of firmness, and if so, how?

Yes, by boosting the synthesis of collagen and elastin proteins in the dermis, it will help firm and smooth the skin.

Are some forms of vitamin C more stable than others, and what are the reasons for this variable stability?

Due to its antioxidant (electron-donating) nature, the pure vitamin C molecule known as ascorbic acid is unstable. It oxidizes in contact with air and light. That's why at Laboratoire ENEOMEY we use vitamin C in a stabilized form, i.e. chemically modified by association with other molecules such as silicon. This form is called ascorbosilane C.

Vitamine C, Laboratoire ENEOMEY

Could you tell us more about this form of vitamin C and its distinctive characteristics?

Ascorbosilane C is a silicon base combined with vitamin C.

It combines the well-known properties of vitamin C (antioxidant, anti-aging, brightening) with the benefits of silicon. It stimulates the skin's production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, and strengthens the cell against free radicals.

The two molecules stabilize each other, and silicon enables vitamin C to penetrate to the dermis.

What's the difference between synthetic and naturally-occurring vitamin C?

There are fruit extracts naturally containing vitamin C, but the use of synthetic ascorbic acid enables the active substance to be formulated in much higher percentages in cosmetic products.

Natural vitamin C will also be sensitive to oxidation and will degrade on the skin's surface, unlike synthetic derivatives, which offer longer-lasting efficacy.

What factors should be taken into account when choosing a dermocosmetic containing vitamin C? in terms of form and concentration?

Form:

Vitamin C in its natural form (L-ascorbic acid) is highly unstable, degrading rapidly on the skin's surface in contact with light and oxygen.

What's more, being hydrophilic in nature, penetration through the stratum corneum, in which cells are firmly fused, will be more difficult.

Forms containing “protected” vitamin C will be able to penetrate the skin more easily. The active vitamin C can thus be released more deeply without being denatured (in contact with air or light).

Concentration:

While dermocosmetics contain the pure form of ascorbic acid, studies have shown that a concentration of at least 20% is needed to have a significant active action in the skin.

Other stabilized forms of vitamin C demonstrate similar efficacy to ascorbic acid at much lower percentages.

pH :

Ascorbic acid must be formulated at a low pH. As a result, skincare products containing it may be less well tolerated by sensitive skin.

A stabilized form of vitamin C may therefore be more suitable for certain skin types or areas of use.

Can vitamin C be combined with other active ingredients to maximize its benefits for the skin, and if so, which ones?

Yes, vitamin C can have a complementary action with :

- Glycolic acid, to stimulate skin renewal,

- Niacinamide, to brighten the complexion,

- Hyaluronic acid, to promote anti-aging action.

In which ENEOMEY dermocosmetics can we find vitamin C?

We use vitamin C in the stabilized form of ascorbosilane C in the following skincare products:

DAYLIGHT C20 antioxidant anti-aging day cream, for a daily antioxidant curl effect

MASQUE PEEL OFF C10, for luminous skin in a single dose

STIM RENEW 30 anti-aging firming night care

PERFECT BODY 15 and PERFECT BODY 30 smoothing and firming body lotions

Are there any special precautions to be taken when using products containing vitamin C?

As the pH of products containing vitamin C can be acidic, it is advisable to test the product on a small area of skin before use to check tolerance.

These can lead to skin sensitization, but this is not dangerous.

Soin de jour à la vitamine C, Laboratoire ENEOMEY

Finally, could you give us some practical advice on how to effectively integrate vitamin C into a dermocosmetic skincare program for optimum results?

As a general rule, we recommend applying vitamins in the morning and acids in the evening.

Conseil d'utilisation, Laboratoire ENEOMEY We also recommend using a sun protection product like SUNLIGHT SCREEN 50+ every day to protect your skin and optimize the fight against skin aging.